Difference between revisions of "MakerGarden 2011"

From Makers Local 256
Jump to: navigation, search
m (Getting It To Work: lol)
m (Three Sisters Variation: added reference)
 
(8 intermediate revisions by one user not shown)
Line 11: Line 11:
 
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Sisters_(agriculture) Three Sisters]
 
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Sisters_(agriculture) Three Sisters]
 
** First Sister - Tall Plants (Shaders and Supporters)
 
** First Sister - Tall Plants (Shaders and Supporters)
*** Japanese Hulless Popcorn
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/corn_pop_jap-hulless.html Japanese Hulless Popcorn]
*** Golden Bantam Yellow Sweet Corn
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/corn_golden-bantam.html Golden Bantam Yellow Sweet Corn]
 
** Second Sister - Climbers
 
** Second Sister - Climbers
*** Red Nightfall (aka Mayflower) Pole Beans - [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_fixation Nitrogen Fixer]
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/bean_red-nightfall.html Red Nightfall (aka Mayflower) Pole Beans] - [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_fixation Nitrogen Fixer]
*** Wando Garden Pea - Nitrogen Fixer
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/pea_wando.html Wando Garden Pea] - Nitrogen Fixer
 
** Third Sister - Ground Spreaders (Moisture Retainers, Weed Crowders and Anti-Vermin Fencers)
 
** Third Sister - Ground Spreaders (Moisture Retainers, Weed Crowders and Anti-Vermin Fencers)
*** Early Prolific Straightneck Summer Squash
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/squash_early-prolific.html Early Prolific Straightneck Summer Squash]
*** Waltham Butternut Winter Squash
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/squash_waltham-butternut.html Waltham Butternut Winter Squash]
*** Schoon's Hardshell Muskmelon
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/melon_schoons.html Schoon's Hardshell Muskmelon]
*** Honeydew, Green Flesh Muskmelon
+
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/melon_green-flesh-honeydew.html Honeydew, Green Flesh Muskmelon]
 
*** Watermelon
 
*** Watermelon
 
*** Pumpkin
 
*** Pumpkin
Line 30: Line 30:
 
* Bush Beans
 
* Bush Beans
 
* Sweet Potatoes
 
* Sweet Potatoes
* Cucumbers
+
* [http://www.victoryseeds.com/cucumber_ashley.html Ashley Cucumbers]
 
* Garlic
 
* Garlic
 
* Herbs
 
* Herbs
 
* Flowers
 
* Flowers
 
** Wildflowers
 
** Wildflowers
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/flower_mixes_north-american.html North American Mix]
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/flower_mixes_southeastern.html Southeastern Mix]
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/flower_mixes_hummingbird.html Hummingbird & Butterfly Mix]
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/flower_mixes_pollinator.html Pollinator Insect Mix]
 
** Morning Glories
 
** Morning Glories
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/ipomoea_tricolor.html Crimson Rambler]
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/ipomoea_purpurea.html Grandpa Otts]
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/ipomoea_tricolor_blue.html Heavenly Blue]
 
** Sunflower Varieties
 
** Sunflower Varieties
 +
*** [http://www.victoryseeds.com/helianthus_annuus_giant.html Giant Greystripe]
  
 
== Experimentation ==
 
== Experimentation ==
 
=== Three Sisters Variation ===
 
=== Three Sisters Variation ===
The basis of the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Sisters_(agriculture) Three Sisters] method is that the First Sister is tall, sturdy and shades the others, the Second Sister climbs on the First for support and the Third Sister spreads leafy vines along the ground and provides ground cover to shade out weeds, retain moisture and to keep off grazers with its thorns.  One or more of the sisters are [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_fixation nitrogen-fixing] to keep the soil fertile, commonly the Second Sister.  Therefore one could make variations on the Three Sisters based on the above characteristics.  By selecting at least one plant from each of the three columns of the table below and having at least one of them be a nitrogen-fixer (marked in <span style="color:darkgreen;">green text</span>), a Three Sisters garden is formed.
+
The basis of the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Sisters_(agriculture) Three Sisters] method ([http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html reference] to Traditional Three Sisters Method) is that the First Sister is tall, sturdy and shades the others, the Second Sister climbs on the First for support and the Third Sister spreads leafy vines along the ground and provides ground cover to shade out weeds, retain moisture and to keep off grazers with its thorns.  One or more of the sisters are [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_fixation nitrogen-fixing] to keep the soil fertile, commonly the Second Sister.  Therefore one could make variations on the Three Sisters based on the above characteristics.  By selecting at least one plant from each of the three columns of the table below and having at least one of them be a nitrogen-fixer (marked in <span style="color:darkgreen;">green text</span>), a Three Sisters garden is formed.
 
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
 
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
 
|-
 
|-
Line 53: Line 61:
 
|  
 
|  
 
* ''<span style="color:darkgreen;">Pole Beans</span>''
 
* ''<span style="color:darkgreen;">Pole Beans</span>''
 +
* <span style="color:darkgreen;">Peas</span>
 +
* <span style="color:darkgreen;">Any Pole-Type Legume</span>
 
|   
 
|   
 
*''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squash_(plant) Squash]''
 
*''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squash_(plant) Squash]''
Line 66: Line 76:
 
* Minerals - Ground bones and ashes from burning.
 
* Minerals - Ground bones and ashes from burning.
 
* Molds, Microbes & Decomposition Bugs - Rotting wood, spoiled food, fresh compost and anything that smells and is decaying.  The bugs can be had from the environment; grubs, earthworms, fly larvae, scavenger bugs, etc.
 
* Molds, Microbes & Decomposition Bugs - Rotting wood, spoiled food, fresh compost and anything that smells and is decaying.  The bugs can be had from the environment; grubs, earthworms, fly larvae, scavenger bugs, etc.
Typically, a good rule of thumb for good soil is to mix carbon and nitrogen type materials at 50/50 volume before decomposition sprinkled with mineral type material.  The addition of molds and microbes will kick start the decomposition process.
+
Typically, a good rule of thumb for good soil is to mix carbon and nitrogen type materials at 50/50 volume before decomposition sprinkled with mineral type material.  The addition of molds, microbes and bugs will kick start the decomposition process.
  
 
'''Considerations:'''
 
'''Considerations:'''
 
* Too much nitrogen and the pile will smell.
 
* Too much nitrogen and the pile will smell.
* Too much carbon and the pile will decompose too slowly and result in poor soil.
+
* Too much carbon causes the pile to decompose too slowly and the lack of nitrogen will result in poor soil.
 
* Too few minerals and your plants will be anemic-looking.
 
* Too few minerals and your plants will be anemic-looking.
 
* Not enough seed molds, microbes and decomposition bugs and it will take some time for the pile to break down.
 
* Not enough seed molds, microbes and decomposition bugs and it will take some time for the pile to break down.
Line 76: Line 86:
 
==== Soil Decontamination & Bioremediation ====
 
==== Soil Decontamination & Bioremediation ====
 
Based on previous data on which compost has been used to remove contaminants from soil.  
 
Based on previous data on which compost has been used to remove contaminants from soil.  
 +
 
Reference:
 
Reference:
 
* [http://www.epa.gov/osw/conserve/rrr/composting/pubs/bioremed.pdf EPA Paper on Compost Bioremediation]
 
* [http://www.epa.gov/osw/conserve/rrr/composting/pubs/bioremed.pdf EPA Paper on Compost Bioremediation]
 
* [http://urbanevolution.org/thinktank/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28 Urban Evolution Article on The Basics of Compost Bioremediation]
 
* [http://urbanevolution.org/thinktank/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28 Urban Evolution Article on The Basics of Compost Bioremediation]
 +
 
== People ==  
 
== People ==  
 
* [[User:Spacefelix|Spacefelix]]
 
* [[User:Spacefelix|Spacefelix]]
 
= Notes =  
 
= Notes =  
 
* [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Qu46z_4i-pNAyziwcFzGjgZWXJmg3oR5UN7UFfWtJ74/edit?hl=en_US Spacefelix's Running Notes for MakerGarden 2011]
 
* [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Qu46z_4i-pNAyziwcFzGjgZWXJmg3oR5UN7UFfWtJ74/edit?hl=en_US Spacefelix's Running Notes for MakerGarden 2011]
 
+
* [http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html Three Sisters Planting Method]
  
 
[[Category:Biology]]                                                  <!--MAKE AS MANY CATEGORIES AS YOU NEED-->
 
[[Category:Biology]]                                                  <!--MAKE AS MANY CATEGORIES AS YOU NEED-->
Line 89: Line 101:
 
[[Category:Project]]
 
[[Category:Project]]
 
[[Category:Bigger_Than_a_Breadbox]]
 
[[Category:Bigger_Than_a_Breadbox]]
[[Category:Makeshop_Bootstrap]]
 

Latest revision as of 07:07, 3 December 2012

Creator:
Spacefelix
Status:
Complete
Born On:
12:49, 21 December 2011 (CST)
Last Updated:
07:07, 03 December 2012 (CDT)

Overview

This is the 2011 continuation of the gardening effort from 2010. Using the lessons from that year led to a lot of improvement in the garden.

Plants Grown

Experimentation

Three Sisters Variation

The basis of the Three Sisters method (reference to Traditional Three Sisters Method) is that the First Sister is tall, sturdy and shades the others, the Second Sister climbs on the First for support and the Third Sister spreads leafy vines along the ground and provides ground cover to shade out weeds, retain moisture and to keep off grazers with its thorns. One or more of the sisters are nitrogen-fixing to keep the soil fertile, commonly the Second Sister. Therefore one could make variations on the Three Sisters based on the above characteristics. By selecting at least one plant from each of the three columns of the table below and having at least one of them be a nitrogen-fixer (marked in green text), a Three Sisters garden is formed.

First Sister Second Sister Third Sister
  • Maize
  • Tomatoes in a Climbing Cage
  • Sunflowers
  • Pole Beans
  • Peas
  • Any Pole-Type Legume

Note: The italics denoted the typical Three Sisters setup.

Compost

Getting It To Work

Four things needed for compost to work & where they can be had:

  • Carbon - Paper products, dried leaves, woody matter and fully decomposed soil.
  • Nitrogen - Green leaves, fresh grass clippings and kitchen food waste.
  • Minerals - Ground bones and ashes from burning.
  • Molds, Microbes & Decomposition Bugs - Rotting wood, spoiled food, fresh compost and anything that smells and is decaying. The bugs can be had from the environment; grubs, earthworms, fly larvae, scavenger bugs, etc.

Typically, a good rule of thumb for good soil is to mix carbon and nitrogen type materials at 50/50 volume before decomposition sprinkled with mineral type material. The addition of molds, microbes and bugs will kick start the decomposition process.

Considerations:

  • Too much nitrogen and the pile will smell.
  • Too much carbon causes the pile to decompose too slowly and the lack of nitrogen will result in poor soil.
  • Too few minerals and your plants will be anemic-looking.
  • Not enough seed molds, microbes and decomposition bugs and it will take some time for the pile to break down.

Soil Decontamination & Bioremediation

Based on previous data on which compost has been used to remove contaminants from soil.

Reference:

People

Notes