FLC1490 Laser Cutter

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Creator:
Gtpyro
Status:
Building the How To Guide, Experimenting with Various Materials
Born On:
19:23, 08 August 2015 (CST)
Last Updated:
12:42, 05 February 2018 (CDT)


This is not the laser cutter you're looking for. Try Robotec 100W Laser, instead.

Specifications

Outside Dimensions (LxWxH): TBD"xTBD"xTBD"
Net Weight: a LOT!
Maximum engrave-able area: 1400 x900mm
Standard Lens: TBD
Maximum material thickness: 1.5" solid Pine, 1" Acrylic, 1/2" Plywood/MDF (depends on glue content and filler)
CO2 Laser Wavelength: 10.6um
Maximum Laser Power: 100W
Power Requirements: 220v AC
Max engraving speed: 0-60,000mm/min
Max cutting speed: 0-30,000mm/min
Laser output control: 1-100% software setting
Location precision: less than 0.01mm
Highest scanning precision: 2500DPI
Operating temperature: 0 - 45
Operating humidity: 5- 95%
Minimum shaping character: English 1.0 x 1.0mm
Graphic format supported: BMP for engraving DXF Vector cutting and rastering
Driving system: stepper
Cooling mode: water-cooling and protection system
Auxiliary equipment: Exhaust-fans, air-exhaust pipe
Controlling software: DSP control system. LaserCut 5.3
Compatible Software: Anything that outputs DXF format
Color separation: yes

Overview

This is How to Use the laser cutter.

Things the laser cutter can cut:
Plywood up to 1/2" thick depending on glue content
Soft Solid Wood up to 1.5" (like a 2x4)
Hard Wood up to 1"
MDF up to 1/2"
Paper
Fabric
Extruded and Cast Acrylic sheets up to 1" (yes really 1")
Polystyrene sheets up to 3/16" maybe more
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) sheets Up to 1/8"
PET(E)(G) (Polyethylene terephthalate) sheets up to 1/4"
EVA Foam Sheets (Ethylene-vinyl acetate) AKA craft foam or EVA Mats up to 1.5"

It cannot cut:
Metal, but it can engrave or "mark" it with Cermark spray located in the machine storage area, use sparingly this spray is very expensive.
Stone
PVC (toxic and harmful to the machine)
materials with high moisture content like fruit/vegetables, damp wood etc.
IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOUR MATERIAL IS ASK FOR HELP!

SAFETY

  • NOTE - THE BELOW WAS STOLEN FROM THE 40 Watt Laser Cutter PAGE. ACTUAL SAFETY STUFF MIGHT DIFFER!!!
  • Treat the Laser Cutter like an angry cobra and you should be just fine. *edit for large format laser cutter* treat this laser cutter like a chinese knock off cobra whose venom is no longer supported by the manufacturer. It likes to not do what you tell it without warning. and sometimes it warns you, in chinese.
    • As long as the safety mechanisms are working the laser is perfectly safe. If you defeat the magnetic safety interlock switch and run the laser with the case

open, then you are exposing yourself to Class 4 Laser Radiation and you deserve what you get. Class 4 means that a coherent reflection can cause "DEVASTATING AND PERMANENT" eye damage with less than 1/100th second exposure, and even diffuse reflections are harmful within a certain distance. Add to that the fact that this is an infrared laser, which means the beam is invisible, and it falls more along the lines of an angry radioactive cobra. DO. NOT. DEFEAT. THE. SAFETY. INTERLOCK. *edit for large format laser cutter* this unit has a reed switch, it will interrupt the cut in progress, but if you press START it will ignore the reed switch and start cutting door open or not.

      • Replacement laser tubes are $1000 a piece. Don't be a doofus. *edit for large format laser cutter* likely we will be best served refilling the current tube once or twice to reduce repair cost.
  • The big red E-STOP button is there for a reason. Use it if things go awry. usually if the end stops fail.
  • stay out of the software settings unless you know what you are doing, you can really mess things up.
  • What happens if you engrave or cut something containing hydrogen or vinyl chloride?
    • If you don't know what's in the material you're engraving or cutting, you may have unintentionally cut or engraved items containing polyvinyl chloride. Performing this once or twice will likely not drastically damage your machine; however, continued engraving or cutting of this material will corrode the inside of your machine. PVC foam board like Sintra and Komatex brand contain PVC and are no-nos.
    • A more important consideration are the potentially hazardous fumes that might be released from processing these materials. Some materials are quite toxic when burned and the damage to your health is much more important than the minor damage you might do to your machine.
    • Material Safety Data Sheets are an invaluable resource for laser engravers. To protect your health and the life of your machine, always obtain a MSDS for materials about which you are uncertain.
    • There are doors all over the large format laser cutter, not all of them have sensors that stop the laser, don't be careless and do not leave children unsupervised around the laser, the doors are easy and fun to open to small fingers.
    • The unit has a motorized Z which can drop about 12-14" down, ensure nothing is stored below in the cabinet before you lower it more than 4-5 inches. Always hover your hand above the Emergency stop when lowering the Z for the first time.

FLC1490 Laser Cutter

Link to cutter specs

HAVE A PATTERN TO CUT (the computer has internet and a couple of programs for editing images)

Startup Instructions (In no particular order):

1) Make sure the big exhaust fan is on.

2) Turn on the fume extraction system.

3) Turn on the laser cutter by turning the key.

4) Turn on the cutter lights by flipping the red switch on the right side of the cutter.


WHEN YOU ARE DONE

1) Turn off the cutter lights.

2) Turn off the laser cutter by turning the key.

3) Turn off the fume extraction system.

4) Turn off the exhaust fan.

Raster Engraving Setting Suggestions

Material Speed Power Resolution Notes
Acrylic TBD TBD TBD
ABS Sheet, Black TBD TBD TBD Does not engrave well on textured ABS, but the smooth side of the sheet does engrave well.
Tempered Fiberboard TBD TBD TBD
Basswood TBD TBD TBD
Cardstock, 110 lb, White TBD TBD TBD
Laser Frost Sheet TBD TBD TBD
AlumaMark Sheet, Satin Silver TBD TBD TBD
Spray Paint, Black, Glossy TBD TBD TBD
EVA Foam (puzzle piece mats, 3/8" thick) 1000 15 0.08 does not cut a straight edge

Vector Cutting Setting Suggestions


All settings are merely a suggestion starting point, your experience may vary depending on many things like color, temperature of material etc.

Material Thickness Speed Power Repetitions Notes
Acrylic 1/4" 7-10 100 1 Also known as Plexiglas, Lucite, and Perspex. Adjust speed up or down depending on color or if you leave the mask on or off. Always do a test circle if you aren't familiar. It sometimes helps to drop the laser bed (Z axis) about 3.00mm to improve focus of the beam on the top surface. if your cut is too jagged, slow the speed down. This laser can cut up to 1.5" thick. We've tested that. It's not pretty but it can do it.
1/8" 15-20 100 1
1/2"+ 3 100 1-2
ABS Sheet, Black, Textured 1/16" - 1/8" 30 50 2-3 ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt). Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene is the chemical name, The buterol is what gives plastics high impact and rubbery like properties, this doesn't cut well and instead makes a mess when it's super-heated or vaporized. lowering the power and going faster (less heat dwelling in one spot) and just multiple passes should get you through.(use the delay option to allow the material to cool between passes) it smells bad.
Tempered Fiberboard 3/16" TBD TBD TBD
1/8" TBD TBD TBD
Luan Plywood 5.2mm 5 100 1-2 Not tested thoroughly, glue in plywood is hard to cut through and sometimes impossible. If the cheap wood has filler in the larger voids you just cannot cut it. drop the Z about 3.00-4.00mm for better focus.
Sandeply Wood 5.2mm TBD TBD TBD See Luan plywood: Much better cut than the Luan Plywood. also good to lower the Z bed 3-4.00mm
MDF 1/4" 10 60 1
Basswood 3/32" TBD TBD TBD See Luan plywood: Much better cut than the Luan Plywood. this is a 100 watt laser, it vaporizes wood this thin very quickly.
Cardstock, 110 lb, White N/A TBD TBD TBD start with 1% power and 100% speed, and go from there, cardboard and paper can't be cut fast enough. The goal is to keep it from catching fire.
Cereal Box Cardboard N/A TBD TBD TBD start with 1% power and 100% speed, and go from there, cardboard and paper can't be cut fast enough. The goal is to keep it from catching fire.
Laserboard 0.020" TBD TBD TBD Can be found at Automated Artists
0.011" TBD TBD TBD
Foamcore, with paper 3/16" TBD TBD TBD start with 1% power and 100% speed, and go from there, cardboard and paper can't be cut fast enough. The goal is to keep it from catching fire. Foam core will melt and "run away" from the edges. ensure the foam doesn't contain PVC.
Foamcore, paper removed 3/16" TBD TBD TBD This is the foamboard found at the Dollar Tree, but with the paper peeled off.
Craft Foam sheet with glitter 0.075" 20 7 2 Crafting foam sheet from Hobby Lobby that has glitter on one side. Put glitter side DOWN!!!
Hobby Lobby Stencil Sheet N/A TBD TBD TBD Also known as mylar sheet. Remove the plastic covering before cutting.
Blue Painter's Tape (2 Layers) N/A TBD TBD TBD For best results, attach the tape to another medium first, like cardboard or plywood. This keeps the tape from moving and warping while being cut.
High Density Fiberboard (HDF) 1/4" TBD TBD TBD
EVA Foam (puzzle piece mats) 3/8" 20 7 4
Polycarbonate 1/16" - 1/8" 5--100 50 1-3 Previously suggested to not cut, however I've discovered settings that do work. Also known as Lexan, Makrolon, and Makroclear. The goal here is to not heat up the edge too much, cut fast and with low power, adjust accordingly and use multiple passes with long pauses in between passes to let the material cool. Some brands work better than others, leave the mask on or you will be cleaning the surface a lot.

Other Vector Setting Suggestions

Material Thickness Speed Power Repetitions Notes
Cardstock, 110 lb, White N/A TBD TBD TBD
Cereal Box Cardboard N/A TBD TBD TBD
Laserboard N/A TBD TBD TBD
Sugar, Table, Granulated N/A TBD TBD TBD
Fig Newtons N/A TBD TBD TBD

Polycarbonate

  • I've heard several opinions as to whether or not it is safe to cut polycarbonate on the laser cutter, so I've tried to look into it a bit.
  • I have determined that, with the recent upgrade to the ventilation system, polycarbonate should be safe to laser cut here at the makeshop.
  • I have also read, but not verified, that freezing the material before cutting may help achieve better results. (ie. cleaner edges, less browning, etc.)
  • A few references:

Software Notes & Troubleshooting

LaserCut 5.3 is the software the laser cutter uses. It's old, slow, and it sucks. We can't replace it because of a stupid DRM USB Stick. Live with it.

LaserCut 5.3 works in inches. If you work in any other measurement LaserCut WILL screw up the size. To fix this:

  • Look at your file to see what measurement your file was set in.
  • Find the math that will fix this (for example: mm -> in = size x 25.4)
  • Go to Draw -> Sizes and select the X axis
  • Apply your math to it and enter the result into the X axis box
  • Press the 3 dot button next to the Y axis (this will scale the current Y axis ratio to match the new X axis)
  • Click OK
  • Profit!

Inkscape

When using Inkscape, mke sure that all objects have been converted to paths (Paths -> Objects to Paths or Shift+Ctrl+C) and ungrouped (Objects - > Ungroup or Shift+Ctrl+G)

General

Inkscape User Manual

  • Snapping is your friend.

Exporting

Making a nice, simple SVG with Inkscape is easy. Getting it to export in a format readable by the laser computer can suck.

Options ctag is exploring:

  • Use the BigBlueSaw plugin
  • Export to EPS and convert to DXF with pstoedit

Options that have worked for others:

SVG to DXF online converters (CloudConvert is a nice one Link)

pstoedit

Workflow:

  • Set the Inkscape image dimensions to mm (?)
  • Export vector/path image from Inkscape as .eps. Default options.
  • Convert the .eps image to .dxf with pstoedit.
  • This final .dxf file should be valid for the laser computer. Colors/layers should be properly preserved.

Basic pstoedit command: 

   pstoedit -f "dxf_s: -mm" input.eps output.dxf
Links

http://www.shapeoko.com/blog/archives/872

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/big-blue-saws-dxf-export-for-inkscape.html

http://www.helga-glunz.homepage.t-online.de/pstoedit/

http://www.tylerforsythe.com/2015/02/inkscape-laser-engraver-bug/

Making perforated lines:

TBD

Making gears:

TBD

HyCad

General

TBD


Pepakura

General

TBD

Proposed Upgrades

Unit is getting an upgraded control board that is 64bit OS compatible. It will use the latest LaserCut 6.1 Software. Hardware is currently on order.

Software Resources

Inkscape User Manual
LaserCut 5.3 Download and software tutorials

Repair and Upgrade Log

On arrival:
The unit had a bad laser tube power supply, it was replaced with one capable of running it's upgraded 100watt tube.
Tube was remounted and re-aimed.
The cylinders that support the bed door were replaced with cylinders provided by Travis Crumpton.
Handle was added to help open the bed door.
LED bed lights were added and extra light was installed above the main control board. The LEDs are ran from a power adapter installed at the back of the cutting area.

5/10/2016 - stepper motor driver for the Z-Axis was repaired, a trace was burned off the board from over-driving it and a bypass wire was soldered in place. Z-Axis mechanical parts were tightened up and loose screws found and re-tightened.
Laser was also refocused and an alignment tool designed and cut. This tool can be found near the laser cutting bed inside the unit.

More Stuff

Flame Test for Chlorine


Other More Stuff

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